Dutch F3D Site

Ok the E2K electric pylon race build started today. 1st opening the box I was impressed with the quality of the kit and wood. Very nice indeed.

All the parts set out inspected and got myself familiar with the kit.

Start off with marking the centre of your wing which is one piece top and bottom. In the kit is two 9mm pieces of balsa we want to mark these on the wing trailing edge.

These are 265mm long. Centre these on each wing half.

Cut out where they are going to fit.

Ok bond the two pieces in and hold them with masking tape until dry. Here I use aliphatic fast drying glue.

Next we take the two side pieces. Fit the two reinforcers. Then using the triangle supplied bond on all the way round. Watching not to go over the edge.

Next take the wing bolt plate and firewall plate and push in the captive nuts.

I use a bolt with a big washer to then pull these through and add epoxy on them after to ensure they don’t come off.

Next using a set squire we bond in the firewall and rear former with the wing bolt plate also.

Then we progress to join the to sides together ensuring everything is squire.

Pull the tail together at the rear and you will see you need to cut away some triangle to make the tail pull in. once done we can fit the rear bottom section.

Next I fitted the rear tail support plate

I then progressed to the top rear deck which was a lovely straight fit.

Here we see the wing with leading edge and tips bonded on. I have also fitted the trailing edge.

Note it is not glued where the ailerons will be hinged as we will cut them out when dry.

Next I test fitted the front top decking. Very nice fit. Here you must have the wing shaped and ready to sit on the fuse.

Mark the centre of your fuse front and rear of the wing.

Test fit the wing.

You will find you need to file back the underside of the fron top deck to get a snug fit of the leading edge of the wing to the fuse.

When happy bond the front deck on.

Trial fit here of tail feathers too.

Ok mark out your wing bolt hole and drill this out.

What I did was to do this then add the ply wing bolt plate after in case I got the hole wrong.

Obviously when you have the hole done apply ply plate.

With the model turned over.

There are two ply plates these are glued to the wing from inside and they align the wing and stop it moving once bolted on. Very good idea.

I then fitted the servo plate using some triangle gusset to for strength.

There is also a small plate of ply this is supplied to mount your esc to I fitted mine here as recommended.

In the belly there is a hatch. In the hatch hole fit two scrap pieces of ply.

These you will use to screw your hatch on and off with.

Ok guys that’s all for today. Not a bad days work at all. I found the instructions a little vague but as I have built many models knew roughly what went where.

This could be a little difficult for a new builder. It made me think and I roughly know the answer through experience I feel here a beginner builder may struggle.

Only bad point so far. All parts shown and listed on the instructions very good for part identity. Instructions good on pictures but they could be a little clearer.

Look forward to tomorrow and doing some more. Gary Ok next part, measure out from the centre of the wing along the servo lead route, There is a template.

Mark out the 4 dowel holes and drill to 9mm.

Bond in the dowels supplied.

Run a groove down the side of the dowels this helps let glue out as you push them in, sink them in deep enough so your servo hatch sits level with wing surface.

I did this with a piece of marked balsa to get depth.

Next I proceeded to cover the tail feathers, leaving the bonding areas uncovered for glueing.

This is the bottom front where there is an access hatch. I did have to make a better fitting hatch as the one supplied had a large gap around it.

With the wing dowels dry I marked around the two servo hatch’s. then cut out the foan using the old hotwire method.

I then cleaned out the foam from the servo wire runs in the wing. I passed as wire down this with string attached. This is so you can pull the servo wires through later.

I then covered the front wing top and bottom and hatch’s.

Looking good assembled dry.

Here it is ready to box back up and send back to my friend for him to finish.

All hinges were made by using the covering as i fitted it. this gives a very good strong hinge but also closes any gaps on flying control surfaces.

As this model is designed for high speed this is always a good idea with such a model. last thing you want is air getting into a flying surface and ripping it off with flutter.

My overall impression of the kit was very nice to build, enjoyable easy and very well designed. good manual but not a beginners kit.

Lower hatch in front underside is cut undersize. so had to make a slightly neater fitting one.

I wish i could comment on its finshs and flying but sadly it's a friends plane and he will doing the rest from here.

I will ask him if he will follow on the rest of the thread for those who may be interested. Gary.

The actual artikels is from RcAircraftOnline